Day 6
Dam, wind and rain.
Leaving Rotorua at a reasonable hour we headed out to the Thermal trail to get our departing fix of trail, only to be met by a steady stream of heavily laiden ultra runners entering the trail head participating in some event. Trail fix denied we endured bitter tarmac that took us to the nice curly back roads that took us from fondly missed Rotorua to the trail head of the Waikato River Trails yet again. This road was preferable to highway 30 as it was sheltered in the valley from the gusty wind. There was even a gravel section to keep things interesting.
A modest lunch was had as well as another fashion photo shoot at Ohakuri dam.
It was far more dryer and sheltered along Waikato river trails for zipping along to Whakamaru than if we had soldiered along the highway. Local characters and hot toasted sandwiches banished the damp mood before we tootled along the Whakamaru chalky cliff top singletrack to the local motor cross track. Therein we had to clamber over what had been described as an open gate! The only option now was the main road to Pureroa forest. These roads wove through the open grassy plains. Crazy gale force winds tore across the plains on occasion and bought us to a grinding halt on one hill in particular.
We had to wait a moment before we could remount the bikes, it was that strong. To say that the Cooke Bro's were happy to see the dirt road into Pureroa Forest would have been an understatement! There only metres away from tomorrow's trailhead was a cabin where the Phillimore duo were waiting with a roast chicken dinner ready to eat! Hot shower, dinner, great company! What more could you ask for after a trying day on the bike? Thanks Phillimores!
Day 7
Timber!
The 84km Timber trail stretches from Pureroa Forest to the old logging town of Ongarue. It's an amazing trail that weaves through ancient "bearded" native forest, over dizzingly high suspension bridges, past denuded forestry and through historic decaying logging settlements. On a loaded bikepacking steed after a big pervious day it seems to take forever to get up to the high point 14km along the trail. It was schlooshy wet in places but not boggy enough to hamper progress and of course the Rohloff drive trains almost totally removed any tyre/mud/drivetrain contamination issues.
Yet once at the top we seemed to hoon down, particularly from Piropiro flat onwards. We went well but not quite at swift enough a pace for Mr. Phillimore to rendezvous with Mrs. Phillimore at the trails end. Goodbye and thank you Mr. P and we trotted onward down the trail as fast as we could. Descending onwards we spotted shy departing wild goats on trail and various locomotive ruins. Filtered water from the trail side stream saw dehydration disappointed for another day. (thanks Tier Gear!)
Some sections were quite bumpy on a bikepacking loaded rigid bike but the Punga(tree fern) lined cuttings were a delight to the eye. Ongarue reached, we called ahead to Taumarunui to secure lodgings and tore in the main highway to grab a hot meal before everything closed. Supermarket supplies for the next day's secured, we enjoyed some Indian curries as the 8pm sunset unfolded before us.
Day 8
Rain-apeu
Almost on que the weather turned to crap as we were making our way through Taumarunui. Daudling to photograph the deadwood constructed full size Moa and to grab second breakfast at the supermarket we wished for a break in the weather.
Unable to avoid the inevitable any longer we ambled along the country gravel back roads in the intermittent rain. A springtime New Zealand staple, the rain blew across in gentle squalls to be replaced by momentary calm to be replaced by squalls in an ongoing cycle.
Owhango and the cafe was a welcome warm break from the descending temperatures and continuing squally showers. We motored along SH4, dynamo powered lights a'glowing in the rainy murk and discovered Raurimu "Woodasaurus Recks" made by the same artist as Deadwood Moa near National Park.
The Alpine tablelands normally afford a good view of the central North Island mountains but due to the abismal weather we could see nill. Entering the town of National Park we discovered another deadwood sculpture, this time a Kiwi, took photos and promptly headed to the nearest cafe. Hot drinks again consumed we glumphed out into the weather, and this time enjoyed the almost gale force tail wind. The craparama weather was starting to ease. At Horopito we entered the Old Coach Road trail that was to take us to Ohakune.
This trail was a historic mixed bag just like the Timber trail. There were suspension bridges, converted viaducts, sweet singletrack and historic, horrendously bumpy, cobbled roads that had us dreaming of fully suspended bikepacking rigs.
Entering town just after 8pm we raided the local Dairy and proceeded to our accomodation, which was closed for the off ski season. Option B closed 15minutes before we got there. Option C the LKNZ Backpackers answered their after hours doorbell and gave us a cheep bunk room which we filled with dirty bikes and freshly launded clothes (thanks to their washing machine).
Please note we did put down a drop sheet and newspaper to limit our grubby impact as its best not to offend a kind host.
No comments:
Post a Comment