Another dump... 4 more days of CBNZB

Four day info dump. 

Days 9,10,11 & 12

 Day 9

Mountain? what Mountain?

After raiding the old style Lollyshop in Ohakune for sugary sustenance we headed along the undulating back roads out of town. 

Rolling along all we can see of the majestic Mount Ruapehu is its' snow dusted feet. It looked chilly and damp when we were starting off and even lightly rained, but five minutes down the road we were peeling off rain gear as we were now basking in glorious sunlight. Rolling country back roads took us through the middle of a herd of fiesty young bulls on the move from paddock to paddock and past an unconcerned farmer that did less herding than we did. 

A nice grassed shoulder beside the gravel section of the road provided a pleasant lunch stop. Soon enough we popped onto Highway 1 and peddled on to Taihape for the obligatory giant corrugated Gum Boot photo. 

We hit the Taihape local New World supermarket and early Chinese takeaway dinner. Tottering down the state highway with full stomachs we pottered up Heartbreak Hill and down again to the white gorge walls of Mangaweka. In the second holiday park based in a domain of the trip, we stayed the night in the sports ground tuck shop that had been converted into a bunk cabin. 

Day 10

Windy hills. 

Leaving Mangaweka we ambled gradually up and out of the gorge depths into logging truck and sheep keeping country. We followed "The Country Road" section of the NZ Cycle Trail instead of dealing with the madness of Highway 1. At Rangiwahia we decided to keep the increasing wind at our backs and travel to Palmerston North in a zigzag fashion to keep the wind our ally. It was a good decision and the increasing wind shoved us along and had us scrambling for our rain gear in Kiwitea. 

A chilly squal later saw us and many other patrons purchasing hot pies at the Cheltenham "corner" store. Soon it was a case of rain gear off as the gale force winds forcefully assisted us all the way to Ashurst. The price paid for all the windy assistance was horrible crippling cross winds half of the way into Palmerston North till we reached the shelter of the Manawatu river paths. A excursion into Palmeston North city centre revealed a Burger Fuel restaurant as our first dining option. We looked no further for a early dinner! Woohoo kumara fries! As Pahiatua was our destination we ground up and over Pahiatua track past the thrashing wind turbines. We ended up in our one and only hotel room of the entire trip. 

Pahiatua has extremes of accomodation; the cheap "Carnival" camp grounds which had cabins, but they were booked out weeks ahead or the expensive (for us) hotel. We decided on the hotel room due the length of the day just past and the threat of crap weather that night. The luxury of a bathroom all to ourselves was nice as well.

Day 11

Baa, Ram, hills...

Leaving Pahiatua we daudled along tring to get in the goove for the day. We were riding country roads again to connect to our next bit of trail, the Rimutaka cycle trail (day 12). Today's route took us along some of the Manawatu cycle way and Route 52. 

The Nga Haerenga/Nz Cycle Trail signs were well placed along the entire day's route of an easy 77km, 

making navigation a diddle!   

Almost nothing of note bar sheep and farms caught our eye, it's a lovely but unremarkable part of the country to travel. Sheep, sheep and sheep were the only livestock I recall from this section. There were no services at Alfredton except Domain camping, toilets and water. Our lunch stop for the day was a livestock loading ramp where a wandering German retiree traveller riding a reasonably fresh looking ex rental mountain bike joined us. When packing up from lunch I discovered I had a broken  spoke and so added that to our list of things to sort that afternoon in Masterton. Masterton was reached only a hour after lunch. After pitching the tents at the Holiday Camp we daudled into town surprised by the extremely bike considerate motorists to get supplies and be unintentionally stalked by the German traveller. Washing, wheel trueing, bag patching, food shopping, clothes washing, sunset photographing, and trans Cook Straight ferry booking, it all happened that afternoon.

Day 12

The Crack!

On the morning of day 12 we roared along highway from Masterton to Greytown assisted by a partial tailwind.  As my brother and I neared the last 3km into Featherston we were buffeted by blustery cross winds. Even our semi-fat tyres couldn't keep us on the road all the time. Lunch in Featherston saw the gale force wind die down. Thankfully we had a tail wind gently shoving us toward the Rimutaka Incline Cycle Trail. 

The starting singletrack joyfully ridden we pottered up the rail trail section. Gusts started licking the sides of the range a little too lovingly. By the time we reached the Little Siberia section the winds amour was more like domestic violence.  While taking photo a gale ripped up valley, in the very same location as the famous train derailment due to wind, flicked my bikes back wheel out and over, and that was a fully loaded bike! I pushed up to the ahead tunnel and rode through noticing that bike felt funny and sluggish. At the tunnel exit I stopped, looked down and noticed a crack at the chainstay-dropout junction. Bugger! There was only one thing to do, and something that we had packed for; a Zip tie fix. It is something that the Cooke Bro's are famous for, and my brother plied his expertise well. 

We limped along trail through the expansive last tunnel to Summit station and started trundling down what could have been a blistering downhill. 

When in mobile phone signal range I contacted Mr Rohloff Nz, who I was due to meet that afternoon.  He said he would meet us and tracked us down using the Spot Tracker Share page that updated our progress every 10minutes. He offered to pick us up and take us into town. Mr Rohloff NZ knew someone who might be able to fix the frame Sunday. Our ferry was booked for the very next day(Saturday) I graciously declined his offer and vowed to limp into our Lower Hutt accommodation along the riverside trails, for if this was to Bev the last day of the CBNZB I was going to ride while the zip ties held! Mr Rohloff  said he would be intouch as he had other options to explore. We continued along the gentle riverside trail, the bike behaving fine apart from pinchy up hill sections where a concerning creak eminated from the MacGyvered fix. The trail popped out onto a suburban street and we heard a frantic beeping of a car horn. It was Mr Rohloff who had again tracked us down thanks to his local trail knowledge and assistance from Mr. Spot Tracker (best birthday gift ever from my wife and in-laws!). Our solution was his man Brendon that had access to an Arc welder. 

My Machinist brother had doubts about our success but half an hour later my frame was fixed with metal chewing gum and tacky grey undercoat. We would make our ferry date after all!

CBNZB update.

I understand now why "famous" bikepackers like Cass Gilbert only update their blog every few weeks. It's hard to find the time to post every day when you have the hours whittled away by a fierce headwind and all you wish to do when stoped is drift off to sleep while hoping that the accomodating pine tree you have pitched your tent under provides enough shelter so that your tent fly isn't maxed out by the nights blustery rain. Or there is gear to repair held together by the zip ties of the day that need to be fixed for the morrow. Or supplies to be purchased at a supermarket so that you don't exceed trip budget....

 

I have many days worth of posts waiting in draft and will post them in the days to come... Watch this space. 

Ah Rotorua! CBNZB day 5

The mornings daudle ride took us along Long Mile Road past the beloved giant Redwoods to the Outdoorsman and into town via the fragrant Sulphur Point thermal area. After the morning of errands sourcing materials for repairs of damaged luggage harnesses and obligatory hot beverages at Zippys, we headed into the Whakarewarewa forest. 

Hmmm hot chocolate!

Mmmmmm sulphur!

In the forest we visited some of our old favourite trails that we have not visited for five years. Some remained almost untouched for the passing of time like the deliciously technical and sloppy Tuhoto Araki or the furiously swoopy Split Enz. 

Other trails like Tickler and Be Rude Not To were not so lucky and only retained a mote of their former glory thanks to the decimation of loggers. I suppose that's the price you pay building sweet trails in a "working forest". 

Of course our Rohloffed steeds charged through sloppy mud and bermed trail alike with nary a whimper! Tomorrow it's off to the start of the Timber Trail. 

CBNZB day 6,7&8 info dump

Day 6

Dam, wind and rain. 

Leaving Rotorua at a reasonable hour we headed out to the Thermal trail to get our departing fix of trail, only to be met by a steady stream of heavily laiden ultra runners entering the trail head participating in some event. Trail fix denied we endured bitter tarmac that took us to the nice curly back roads that took us from fondly missed Rotorua to the trail head of the Waikato River Trails yet again. This road was preferable to highway 30 as it was sheltered in the valley from the gusty wind. There was even a gravel section to keep things interesting. 

 A modest lunch was had as well as another fashion photo shoot at Ohakuri dam. 

It was far more dryer and sheltered along Waikato river trails for zipping along to Whakamaru than if we had soldiered along the highway. Local characters and hot toasted sandwiches banished the damp mood before we tootled along the Whakamaru chalky cliff top singletrack to the local motor cross track. Therein we had to clamber over what had been described as an open gate! The only option now was the main road to Pureroa forest. These roads wove through the open grassy plains. Crazy gale force winds tore across the plains on occasion and bought us to a grinding halt on one hill in particular. 

  We had to wait a moment before we could remount the bikes, it was that strong. To say that the Cooke Bro's were happy to see the dirt road into Pureroa Forest would have been an understatement! There only metres away from tomorrow's trailhead was a cabin where the Phillimore duo were waiting with a roast chicken dinner ready to eat! Hot shower, dinner, great company! What more could you ask for after a trying day on the bike? Thanks Phillimores!

Day 7

Timber!

The 84km Timber trail stretches from Pureroa Forest to the old logging town of Ongarue. It's an amazing trail that weaves through ancient "bearded" native forest, over dizzingly high suspension bridges, past denuded forestry and through historic decaying logging settlements. On a loaded bikepacking steed after a big pervious day it seems to take  forever to get up to the high point 14km along the trail. It was schlooshy wet in places but not boggy enough to hamper progress and of course the Rohloff drive trains almost totally removed any tyre/mud/drivetrain contamination issues. 

Yet once at the top we seemed to hoon down, particularly from Piropiro flat onwards. We went well but not quite at swift enough a pace for Mr. Phillimore to rendezvous with Mrs. Phillimore at the trails end. Goodbye and thank you Mr. P and we trotted onward down the trail as fast as we could. Descending onwards we spotted shy departing wild goats on trail and various locomotive ruins. Filtered water from the trail side stream saw dehydration disappointed for another day. (thanks Tier Gear!)

Some sections were quite bumpy on a bikepacking loaded rigid bike but the Punga(tree fern) lined cuttings were a delight to the eye.  Ongarue reached, we called ahead to Taumarunui to secure lodgings and tore in the main highway to grab a hot meal before everything closed. Supermarket supplies for the next day's secured, we enjoyed some Indian curries as the 8pm sunset unfolded before us.

Day 8

Rain-apeu

Almost on que the weather turned to crap as we were making our way through Taumarunui. Daudling to photograph the deadwood constructed full size Moa and to grab second breakfast at the supermarket we wished for a break in the weather.  

(Yes rain drop on camera lens)

Unable to avoid the inevitable any longer we ambled along the country gravel back roads in the intermittent rain. A springtime New Zealand staple, the rain blew across in gentle squalls to be replaced by momentary calm to be replaced by squalls in an ongoing cycle.  

Owhango and the cafe was a welcome warm break from the descending temperatures and continuing squally showers. We motored along SH4, dynamo powered lights a'glowing in the rainy murk and discovered Raurimu "Woodasaurus Recks" made by the same artist as Deadwood Moa near National Park. 

The Alpine tablelands normally afford a good view of the central North Island mountains but due to the abismal weather we could see nill. Entering the town of National Park we discovered another deadwood sculpture, this time a Kiwi, took photos and promptly headed to the nearest cafe. Hot drinks again consumed we glumphed out into the weather, and this time enjoyed the almost gale force tail wind. The craparama weather was starting to ease. At Horopito we entered the Old Coach Road trail that was to take us to Ohakune. 

This trail was a historic mixed bag just like the Timber trail. There were suspension bridges, converted viaducts, sweet singletrack and historic, horrendously bumpy, cobbled roads that had us dreaming of fully suspended bikepacking rigs. 

Entering town just after 8pm we raided the local Dairy and proceeded to our accomodation, which was closed for the off ski season. Option B closed 15minutes before we got there. Option C the LKNZ Backpackers answered their after hours doorbell and gave us a cheep bunk room which we filled with dirty bikes and freshly launded clothes (thanks to their washing machine). 

Please note we did put down a drop sheet and newspaper to limit our grubby impact as its best not to offend a kind host. 

Dam, Dam and Damn!!!

Leaving our most accomodating Arapuni Backpackers hosts and the knowledgable Brian of Rhubarb cafe, we started on the serpentine singletrack of the Waikato River trails. From Arapuni Swingbridge through to Jones Landing is a technical delight with a staircase thrown in to keep you entertained. A country road blat takes you to the tiny but delightful Jim Barnett Reserve for 3-4km of Punga (tree fern) lined singletrack before popping you back out onto that country road again. 

In total there is 75-80km of serpentine singletrack that runs along the river and traverses more than six different trail types. The dams visited are; Arapuni, Waipapa, Maraetai and Whakamaru. 

Mangakino was a great place to have lunch while waiting for a crazy afternoon storm to blow over. Over 35km of singletrack and numerous squeeze gates (bikepacking kit only! panniers will NOT fit through!) took us through to Atiamuri. 

Mr Garmin Etrex happily told us that there was 40km to Rotorua and only 1hour of daylight left. Thanks to our Dynamo powered light sets (big thanks to Kerry of KLite for all his assistance with gear advice and fantastic product!) we motored into Rotorua at 9.35pm at night. Lesson for the day?; technical singletrack takes a while to ride!

 Thanks KLite!!!

Hobbiton and the impending Doom

Just before we were due to scarper from the Opal Springs Holiday Park Matamata the rain came down again, but thankfully it was a classic Nz spring shower. 

We tore along the rolling, but increasingly steep Waikato hills to Hobbiton for the 9.30am tour. It was looking close. It became apparent that we were not going to make the 9.30 tour, so we relaxed for about a minute, then a squally cloud blew  in, then we rounded the corner to Hobbiton, THEN it started to hail! Of course in true New Zealand style the hail eased up in 2 minutes and brilliant sun returned. Thanks to the lovely staff at Hobbiton set tours we safely stashed our fully loaded bikes and did the tour. We bussed, we photographed, we listened to the knowledgeable tour guide... This is when the impending doom appeared.  

It rained again, then the sun came out, then another mini storm blew across and we frantically raided a Hobbit hole umbrella stash. After the tour we pedalled through the Waikato hills to be buffeted by more squally 3 minute showers. At the Karapiro Mobil we consulted maps, IPhones and accomodation guides as we realised that we were not going to make our intended camp for the night. 

More rolling Waikato hills took us to the quaint little town of Arapuni. The wonderful owners of the Arapuni Backpackers looked after us, dried our rain gear overnight, while we transformed our bunk room into a backpackers laundry. 

Day 4 holds the Waikato River Trails 75-80km of river side singletrack!

Rail trail blitzing and Hobbiton bound

Cooke Bro's Kiwi Brevet day 2. 

First day packing up camp when on tour always takes longer than expected. The as yet un mastered pack up routine hindered departure and we hooned into Thames central to the Post Office.  Packaged off to Cromwell to await us is the bike travel bags and carry on luggage, minus contents. 

Stock crossing gate just outside of Thames. Take note BVRT!

The flat gravel, well built bridges and flat grade of the Hauraki rail trail saw us make Paeroa in good time. Unfortunately finding a replacement buckle for my pack saw many locals sending us all over the town center. (If you need something fixed, good chance Bunnings Paeroa will sort you out.) From Paeroa we branched out along the Karangahake gorge to historic Victoria Battery at Waikino. The rail tunnel and viaduct bridges over highway 2 that lead to the gold mining ruins at Victoria Battery were the highlights of the day. 

Lunch demolished in the Victoria Battery ruins we finished our bike fashion photo shoot and tore back along to Paeroa. 

The jaunt from Paeroa into Matamata was uneventful along the arrow straight rail trail that ended at Te Aroha, but we capped it off with early takeout dinner before charging to the finish. Rain gear was necessary for the last blat into Matamata, dooming the tents to be neglected for cheap cabin lodgings for the night. 

Day 1: CBNZB begins

The Cooke Brothers New Zealand (Kiwi) Brevet. Day one. After airport adventures of undisclosed oversized baggage charges and itinerant backpacker sleeping in the airport we tottered out to assemble the bikes just after dawn. An epic three hours later and multiple conversations with smokers had, we left Auckland. (We inadvertently started assembling the bikes in the designated 

smokers hut!) Aucklands Southern suburbs passed in a blur and we motored to Kawakawa Bay for lunch. The wizened navigator Google said that it would take us 4hr 14min to reach Thames. From my previous experience riding this region, I knew there was a spur to crest and undulations round the Firth of Thames to manage. We rejected navigator Googles well meaning advice and decided that we could post off our excess baggage to Cromwell on Tuesday morn. Rather than the planned Monday afternoon. It was a good decision as a headwind greeted us over the spur. Thankfully it became a tailwind that pushed us along the bottom of the Firth of Thames right into Thames. We only exceeded Navi Googles estimates by 15min. Hmmm??!! Lesson learned for the day; bike assembly always take longer than estimated. I have a cut finger that attests to that! 

Madness and Adventure Begins on the 10th!

My brother and I will start on our ride of the exquisite wilds and picturesque civilised parts of New Zealand this Monday the 10th of November. 

Of course our bikes will be loaded to the gun-walls with the lightest essential bikepacking equipment! 

Update and photos will be posted along the way. Perhaps insite, perhaps tales of woe, perhaps a nice photo or two. Stay tuned for more....

(Of course both our steeds are Rohloff equipped! )

Drivetrain

External or Internal?
The question should really be bombproof or vunerable?

Seriously for the ultimate bombproof bikepacking drivetrain you can't go past a Rohloff Speedhub. I've used various drivetrains over the 22 years that I have mountain biking. Thirteen of those years has been on a Rohloff Speedhub. None are as reliable or shift with consistency in ALL weather conditions as well as the Speedhub. I've toured countries, raced various endurance mountain bike races and racked up excessive commuter mileage on a Speedhub and I'm yet to find its equal. Yes, there are other lighter drivetrains out there. Yes, there are cheaper drivetrains out there. If you want a drivetrain that will continue shifting mile/kilometre after mile/kilometre, no mater where in the world you are, no mater what weather Mother Nature is throwing at you, get a Rohloff Speedhub. 

Navigation??

So getting from A to B while "on the road"? What's the best way to plan your trip and navigating while on the bike? After much research and asking other bikepackers out there I settled on a Garmin ETrex 30.

After use I can understand why the ETrex is the bikepacking GPS of choice. As the Etrex is designed for hiking the tracking of location and indication of actual speed is far more accurate than cycling specific GPS units I have used in the past. The joystick/button control interface seems positivity 1980s game console in comparison to modern touch screens, but is ultimately more useable while wearing gloves, in the blustery rain and when mud splashed. The screen and map resolution also remind you of a dated gaming console in comparison to other hi-res modern units, BUT the battery life more than compensates for that! Using standard alkaline batteries the  Etrex lasts for 25 hrs! Additionally an external battery can be connected to continue unit function if the internal batteries are running low. Although some of the features of the Etrex seem dated, the durability and useability in the field more than make up for the reduction in wizzbangery. 

How to create GPX map files. 

So far, in my experience, the easiest way to create a route to load onto your Etrex is to use:

Mapmyride.com

Join up, become a member for free, and find your way to "create a route". Using the map tools create your map and save it. After saving this screen will appear:

 

Now this route needs to be saved as a GPX file so you can load it into your Etrex  unit. In the right hand option box there is the "Export this route" option:

Select this and follow the dialogue boxes that your computer pops up, and save the file to your desktop. This file MAY NOT have a file type designation or a legible name. Rename the file and give it a ".gpx" ending. Connect your Etrex via USB cord to the computer. Open the device from the desktop "Garmin" icon using file manager and open the GPX folder. Drag and drop the route GPX file into this folder. This route map can now be accessed through the "Track Manager" icon in the main menu of your Etrex unit. The route map can be viewed, after loading, in the "Map" function, if you happen to be switching between "Map" and "Trip Computer". 

Preperation For Two Brothers Crazy Adventure

Although this Blog will cover items of general Bikebacking information and the BVRT, it also will chronicle the miss-adventures of the Cooke Brothers on their Cooke Bro's Kiwi Brevet.

The Cooke Bro's Kiwi Brevet will start in Auckland and terminate in Queenstown 2400km and 20 days later.

We have had some hiccups along the way but tickets are payed for, equipment purchased and itinerary/logistics devised.

We (my brother and I) have to thank Paul of Rohloff Australia for all his support for this venture and in the past.

In November the madness begins!